Da kriegst ein Vogerl

Das Restaurant Zum Ferdinand im Bamberger Haus bietet eine vorzügliche Wiener Küche – die hat allerdings ihren Preis. Der Service ist ungewöhnlich aufmerksam. Doch es gibt etwas, das den Gast in Bedrängnis bringt.

Wer im Norden Deutschlands wohnt und allenfalls im Urlaub in die Alpenregion kommt, hält Bayern und Österreicher gerne für eine Art Zwillinge – laufen in Tracht herum und sprechen einen schwer verständlichen Dialekt. Der Kenner weiß, dass diese Einschätzung ein rechter Schmarrn ist, auch wenn der Österreicher den Bayern für artverwandter hält als etwa den Niedersachsen, und umgekehrt. Bruno Kreisky, langjähriger österreichischer Bundeskanzler, hat das einmal auf den Nenner gebracht: Im Urlaub fahre er am liebsten nach Bayern, da sei er nicht mehr in Österreich, aber noch nicht in Deutschland.

The differences that are often overlooked include the kitchen. And not only because the neighbors have quite different names for some foods, where the potatoes are called potatoes, the tomato paradeiser and Fisolen are green beans. Especially the classical Viennese cuisine is a bit finer and more refined, even if one does not like to hear that in this country.

The usual Munich surcharge?

Since May, the offer of authentic Austrian cuisine has been expanded to include an ambitious restaurant. The Bamberger Haus am Luitpoldpark has been cooking binational since then. The basement houses the pizzeria Ciao Francesco. At the top, tenants Sebastian Flaskamp, ​​Tom Breiter and Mathias Rösch, who also run Chez Fritz in Haidhausen, offer upscale Viennese cuisine at Zum Ferdinand .

Whereby the lifted refers also to the prices, which in the Ferdinand, named after emperor Ferdinand I., rather do not move in middle-class fields. What raises the question: Does the bid justified the price or reckons here again a host the usual Munich supplement? To anticipate: In Ferdinand there is no reason to fret about the bill, the enjoyment more than compensates for the financial commitment.

What do you have to try in an Austrian restaurant? Of course the Wiener Schnitzel (21.50 Euro). In Ferdinand it is served with parsley potatoes and cranberries and it's just what a Wiener schnitzel must be: the meat thin and tender, the breadcrumb airy and crispy. The veal topping (24.50) with spinach and potato mashed potatoes (Austrian for mashed potatoes) is also of the very finest: The meat disintegrates almost by itself, without being fibrous, the spinach is so finely spiced that you like the cook over the shoulder had looked what he has strewn everything in it.

Pretty perfect kitchen

The Schweinerei, which consists of 36 hours of cooked belly, pork cheek and Schweinsfuß and served with white cabbage and bread dumplings (22,50), will also positively surprise people who otherwise have less hearty with hearty dishes. The veal sliced ​​with fresh porcini mushrooms (24.50) unfolded an enchanting aroma when serving and the Fiaker beef goulash with pickle and fried egg (18.50) came spicy on the table, without being killed by too much sharpness. Even with another Viennese classic, the fried chicken with potato lamb's lettuce (correct: potato-bird salad), there was nothing to complain about.

It all sounds like pretty perfect cuisine, and yet there is a lot left on many dishes. There is a simple reason for this: The portions in Ferdinand are so huge that they overwhelm an average eater. In particular, if one decides before to an appetizer. Again, the hosts do not keep much of chiselled cabaret on the plate. It does not matter if you choose the Szeged fish soup with sauerkraut and sour cream (9.50), the lettuce pea soup (9.50), the lettuce with bacon (9.50) or the beef tartare (14.50) not much after that. The bread that Ferdinand delivers as a piece of dough and is baked there, so that it is always fresh on the table, also contributes to this.

You think about the portion sizes

The sumptuous menu slows down the desire for a dessert considerably, which may explain why there are only three desserts on the menu. Of course, the classic among them, the Kaiserschmarrn, still had to be tasted, although even the small portion (8.50) is enough for two people.

In the near future the map will be changed, then there will be lunch dishes and also about the portions you think, explains the staff. This is in Ferdinand quite different in many restaurants and upmarket, where the waiters are often arrogant when the guests: attentive but not intrusive, friendly but not oily, polite but not submissive. That's how it could have been during times of kuk, one thinks, to which the ambience also contributes. You sit under an ornate wooden ceiling, in the middle of the room hangs a huge chandelier. Elsewhere, this would look cheesy, but here in the Bamberger Haus, a building in the style of the Franconian Baroque, it suits well.