Wohnzimmer-Ambiente im Villenviertel

Das Stüberl im Gasthof Zum Bären strahlt Wohlfühlatmosphäre aus, die Speisen tun das mitunter auch.

It is a house with a past, and you can see it: The Gasthof Zum Bären in Gauting is perched literally above the tree-lined Pippinplatz, a massive building in inviting light yellow with oriels, green shutters, brick-red roof. As at the turn of the century resourceful real estate dealers recognized the advantages of the then rural community in the Würmtal, between 1903 and 1914 an extensive villa colony developed here.

The fine residential area is still an attraction today, who strolls past ornate country houses and picturesque gardens, feels moved to other times – apart from the bodies of the wealthy residents.

The “Bear” built in 1911 was the center of the villa colony, so to speak the large living room of the settlement, which accommodated civil servants and private individuals, artists and retired officers. The listed building is today a hotel and restaurant, and the renovated dining room is beautifully old-fashioned with no hint of mold: the dark wooden ceiling, the paneled walls and floral curtains are cozy and cheerful at the same time.

The bears do not necessarily come for food

So you like to go in the bear, also to sit outside behind a beech hedge under thick chestnuts. However, because of the food you do not necessarily need to come, and that’s a shame. After all, the inn flourished, then still with associated butcher, in the interwar period under a young efficient host couple, strengthened in the fifties his reputation as an excellent picnic spot and appeared, after some tenant changes, mid-nineties as a gourmet address in relevant publications.

Living room atmosphere in the villa quarter

Of these, the kitchen of today’s operators is quite far away. Anyone who is happy to take a seat at one of the tastefully set tables, happy about the courteous service, the pencils for the children, the blankets on cool evenings, is the more disappointed that the kitchen is often only average. Maybe it’s because here many, one might almost say: for the most part dine hotel guests. Above all, the business must run smoothly, culinary delights stay out of it.

It is not that the cook in the bear had no ideas. Unfortunately, there was always a lack of execution. On the beef carpaccio (8.90) there were a few drops of creamy balsamicos, the meat was of good quality – but frozen inside. Over the rocket salad came pine nuts, the parmesan was missing, sometimes he lost himself in the dressing (7,60).

The best way to go is with traditional dishes

A real mistake was the wild garlic ravioli, but the pasta itself was nothing to complain about. Why, however, a stroke of strangely viscous but tasteless cream buried the pasta beneath it remained the secret of the cook (7.90). The same sauce swirled around the vegetable strudel (7.90), the tasty carrot filling of which suffered surprisingly little. For vegetarians, spring, Asparagus is thankful, an enjoyable time, and also in the bear, there is the obligatory asparagus card. But the bars, accompanied by potatoes and a hollandaise (9.90), were very thin and sometimes too softly cooked on the plate.

The best way to go in the bear with traditional dishes. The Wiener Schnitzel vom Kalb was as thin as it needs to be (14.50). The two slices of Tafelspitz, nice and tender, lay on sturdy steamed carrots, zucchini and salsify (13.90) – just a pity that freshly grated horseradish was missing. In the stewed ox cheeks (14.70), the pleasantly mellow meat, served on a generous portion of mashed potatoes, allowed the strong taste of the red wine suds just in the right intensity – a comforting warming dish and not a bad choice, if one is longer on May evenings flowering chestnuts will sit as the temperature actually permits.

One does not even think about it, what a pity it would have been if the complaint of a neighbor had succeeded and curtailed the beer garden. Not to mention the fortune never realized idea from the year 1980 to simply demolish the proud bear. The Vesper economy has endured a lot over the decades – and who needed comforting on the shock, was better served with a piece of lush apple strudel plus cream (3) as a large portion of Kaiserschmarrn (7.90), the heavy and buttery came from the kitchen ,